Hiya folks,
Today started like any other at Hotel Graphy Nezu – Happy to be in Japan, but questioning our life choices of getting a dorm room instead of a private. One of our bunkmates has been coughing up a lung every night. She’s stationed in the top bunk, right across from me. I just shut my little curtain, plug in my earplugs, and think anti-sick thoughts (thoughts and prayers y’all).
Then there’s our other bunkmate. The snorer. Not just any snorer—chainsaw loud. Needs a C-PAP machine loud. Every so often, he’d have one so outrageous that John and I would have to cover our mouths to keep from laughing too loudly. Let’s just say, we’re a little sleep deprived.
Running on fumes, we decided to check out Ueno Zoo, just a five-minute walk from the hostel. I had mixed feelings about going as Japan isn’t known for stellar animal welfare practices. And unfortunately, this turned out to be true at this zoo. The enclosures were tiny, dingy, and lacked any real attempt at mimicking the animals’ natural habitats. Picture a metal cage with some hay/dirt on the ground, an automatic water feeder, and a tree thrown in as an afterthought. At least there was water, I guess?
A few highlights:
- The emu stood alone in its cramped enclosure, a bald stripe running down from its head to its back. No space to run, no companions.
- The red pandas paced in circles around the edge of their enclosure, the entire time we were there. A little kid nearby asked, “Mummy, why are they walking around and around?” Her mother replied, “They are walking around and around, aren’t they?” Poor little guys.
- The goat looked malnourished—its belly caved in, its legs trembling as it moved.
- Two exotic pheasants scratched and pecked at the doorsof their enclosures, desperate for escape.
- The penguins stood facing the wall, motionless—a common sign of stress in captivity.
It was hard to watch. Harder still was the contrast: wealthy zoo-goers, many of them dressed in expensive clothes, taking photos and giggling at the animals, seemingly oblivious to the neglect surrounding them.
We left after the panda exhibit. I couldn’t stomach any more of it. It was interesting to learn that even though Japan has its kawaii culture, the real, living animals—the ones their plushies are modeled after—aren’t treated with more care. With all of Japan’s scientific advancements, there’s definitely opportunity for inventive animal care products and zoo design. Maybe someone will read this blog post and get an idea for a business. Pssst, if that happens, I call dibs on 25% of the revenue.
After shaking off the zoo experience, we decided to visit Tokyo Tower. Well, decided in the sense that I keep agreeing to visit these tall buildings without fully realizing how tall they are until I’m standing right in front of them. The moment we stepped off the metro and Tokyo Tower came into view, my stomach dropped.
The structure is striking—its orange latticed beams and splayed legs resemble the Eiffel Tower, yet it has a presence all its own. Somehow, every time I looked up, it seemed to grow taller. In the center, a main elevator whisks visitors up to the observation deck, while another takes you even higher.
John, the brave man that he is, was thrilled to go as high as possible. Heights don’t faze him at all, which is both impressive and slightly unsettling—like, are you even human? He was equally enthusiastic about taking the stairs down instead of the elevator, like a little golden retriever. Mind you, these stairs are open to the outside, with only a thick net serving as a barrier. If you look down, you can see all the way to the bottom. My legs started shaking so badly, I was convinced I was about to dissolve into a puddle right then and there.
But somehow we made it down to the surface again. And the Earth continued to turn. And our lives went on. Thank goodness for that, because we found a Hawaiian Poke place for dinner in the heart of Tokyo, which was to die for. The perfect way to wrap up the day.
Happy Valentine’s Day everyone!
-W