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Thailand

A Collection of Short Memories

This blog post will grow alongside our travels—a little collection of memorable moments that don’t have homes anywhere else. Think of it as a scrapbook of odds and ends. Enjoy!   Bali Stories:   We landed at Ngurah Rai Airport in Bali at 1am on March 24th, bleary-eyed and sleep deprived. As we taxied on the tarmac, the flight attendant announced over the loudspeaker, “please be aware that bringing heavy narcotics into Bali is a crime punishable by death. Also, please remember to fill out your health declaration and customs forms. Welcome to Bali.” John and I looked at each other thinking, way to just slip that information in there lady. We quickly got out our phones to fill out the necessary forms to make it out of the airport smoothly. Then once it was safe to do so, we collected our bags from the overhead compartments and exited the plane.   ***************   John was driving Scoopy, our black-and-silver scooter rental, through the Amora Huts area with me riding on the back as his trusty passenger princess. His phone was clipped to the handlebars, guiding us to Secret Beach — a tucked-away gem on Nusa Ceningan. We passed little roadside shops selling everything from snacks to beachwear, and locals perched on stools outside either stared, nodded, or ignored us entirely.   We reached a bumpy stretch of road near a makeshift wooden garage where scooters were parked. I pointed and said, “We could just park here,” as John rolled up beside it. The engine was still softly humming as we debated our next move when a man on a white scooter appeared out of nowhere.   He pulled up beside us and asked, “Where are you going?” “Secret Beach,” John replied. “Come, I’ll show you.”   I had already hopped off the scooter, and the man patted the back of his seat, motioning for me to get on. I shook my head and said, “I’ll ride on ours,” climbing back onto Scoopy. Without another word, he turned and started up the gravel path like it was second nature, trusting we’d follow. John and I exchanged a look, shrugged, and took off after him. Without turning around, John said, “I read there’s a guy who patrols these trails offering to guide people and then asks for money.” “Huh,” I said. “I wonder if that’s him.” “I wonder,” John said.    We followed him until he pulled off into a small dirt clearing surrounded by trees, where a narrow path led down toward the beach. We parked and walked together toward the stone path leading down.   He stopped and asked where we were from. “America,” we said. He looked at us both and smiled. “You are very beautiful,” he said to me, then turned to John and added, “And you are very handsome.” Then he asked, “How long have you been dating?” but John misheard and thought he asked how long we’d been in Bali. “Oh, a few days,” John replied. Realizing the mix-up, John then asked, “Should I give you a little something for helping us?” The man nodded. “Yes.”   John reached into his man purse and handed him a small amount of IDR. We both thanked him, he gave a little bow, and just like that, we parted ways — us heading down the path to the beach, and him riding off into the trees.   *********   Vietnam Stories:   I was heading back to John after putting my sunglasses in a locker for safekeeping at Phu Quoc’s Aquatopia Water Park, when something caught my eye near the splash pad. A dad was holding his baby close to his chest, running back and forth through the fountains. Each time they passed through the sprays, he’d pause, look at her, and say something—probably the equivalent of “again?” in their language—and she would erupt into giggles, her whole body shaking with joy. Then off they’d go, dashing through the water once more. She was having the time of her life. To them, it was like they were the only people who existed in that moment. It was such a sweet and happy thing to have witnessed.    *********   John and I were walking through Swan Lake Park in Hanoi—a lovely little trail that circles a central pond. The path was lined with palm trees and, to our surprise, had the first public trash cans we’d seen since arriving in Vietnam. There was a bright patch of flowers, plenty of swans, and then, unexpectedly, a small farm tucked off to the side.   There were peacocks, a pig, and a donkey, each in their own pen along a side path that veered off the main trail. I thought, Oh cool! but John didn’t want to risk interacting with farm animals since we were going to Thailand next, so I wandered over alone.   As I looked around for someone to ask if I could pet the donkey, a group of five middle school-aged kids appeared from behind one of the huts. They wore matching uniforms and badges around their necks and walked over to the donkey. One of the girls approached me with a curious look and said, “Hello.”   “Hello,” I replied, pointing to the donkey. “Yours?”   She giggled, said nothing, and handed me a small bunch of grass to feed him. I took the grass and fed the donkey, then turned back to the group—now all five kids had gathered around—and said, “Thank you, bye-bye!” They all waved and said a chorus of enthusiastic “bye-byes”. I walked back to John, who was waiting on a bench, and told him all about it.   *********  

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Laundry Bags to Tough Thai Massage Ladies – March 21st

Hello, friends new and old,   Our room at the Good 9 At Home B&B in Phuket, Thailand is absolutely charming. We have a king bed, walls painted in soft and deep blues, and cute wood-like furniture with plenty of storage for our things. Off to the side, there’s a private bathroom with a waterfall shower—though the glass barrier isn’t quite wide enough to prevent water from splashing onto the bathroom floor. Still, the water temperature and pressure are perfect—exactly what you want for a relaxing shower. Unlike our tiny shoebox of a room in Bangkok, this one has a window! It’s a two-pane sliding window that offers a small but lovely view: a two-foot slice of sky and the top of a banana tree swaying behind the hotel. John hasn’t been feeling well and wanted a low-key day in the room, so I decided to fill my day with little adventures while he rested.   Dressed in my funky pink-and-blue mandala pants from Bangkok, a tan workout top, and many rings, I set out early to find a laundromat. Just up the street, I found Ps@Washaway, a self-serve, open-style laundromat accessible from both the front and side. It had 3 washers, 3 dryers, and a sign politely requesting that customers remove their shoes before stepping onto the platform with the machines. With my Cotopaxi laundry bag packed to the brim, I wandered around, trying to get my bearings. The sun was relentless today, so stepping under the laundromat’s shaded roof was a nice change of pace.   As I scouted the area, I spotted the coin exchange machine—my nemesis. No matter where I go—whether in the U.S., Tokyo, or here—these machines seem to have it out for me. I fished a 100-baht bill from my blue purse and smoothed it out with my fingers before feeding it into the slot, King Vajiralongkorn’s face first. The bill slid in aaaaaand immediately spat back out. I flipped it. Nope. Reversed it. Nope. Again. No luck. My attempts turned into a ridiculous montage as the machine rejected the bill faster and faster each time. Glancing around for help, I caught the attention of a sweet Thai woman waiting for her own laundry. With a sheepish smile, I explained my struggle. She took the bill, smoothed out the edge just a little more, and—bam!—got it on the first try. I said wow and told her she was magic. She laughed and walked back over to her chair. I thanked her with a small bow, pressing my hands together in gratitude. She returned the gesture with a warm smile.   Now armed with 10 coins, I headed over to the washing machines, feeling victorious—until I realized I had forgotten one crucial thing: laundry detergent. So, with my oversized laundry sack in hand, once again I made my way back toward the detergent vending machine. For 10 Baht you could choose between Thai jasmine scented, clean laundry scented, or mixed floral scented detergent packets. I popped my 10 baht coin through the coin slot, clicked the button with the hand icon next to the mixed floral scent, and watched the metal ring turn to drop the packet into the delivery slot. It was squishy and warm, toasted by the hot air sitting inside the machine. Feeling confident, I took a barefoot step back onto the wooden platform ready to do some laundry.   *****   About three minutes down the street, I sat inside the Rise & Grind, sipping a minty chocolate iced drink through a straw. It was 85 degrees outside and very humid, so instead of waiting for my laundry to finish at the open-air laundromat, I decided to pass the time in this cool, air-conditioned café. At the entrance of Rise&Grind, a mat read, “Please remove your shoes.” It was the first business I’d ever visited where the vibe was no shirt, shoes, no service.   My chair faced a large window overlooking an empty development lot across the street, a selection of local houses, and beautiful tall palm trees. Behind the counter, the shop owner tinkered with something—surrounded by a giant red espresso machine, fresh fruit, and various other tools on the counter. I had ordered a ciabatta breakfast sandwich and was waiting for it to arrive.   Two French men sat chatting at a table in the middle of the café. One of them nodded to me; I nodded back, then returned to listening to my new favorite podcast: Random Number Generator Horror Podcast No. 9. It’s made by Night Vale Presents—the same folks behind Welcome to Night Vale—and each episode reviews a different horror movie. I’m easily startled, can’t stomach gore, but I love a good jump scare. Listening to Cecil Baldwin and Jeffrey Cranor talk through the plot, start to finish, is the perfect way to experience the more gross films without having to actually watch them. The eerie commentary added a spooky edge to an otherwise hot, tropical day in Phuket.   When my sandwich arrived, I remembered I wasn’t supposed to eat gluten—it hurts my stomach—so I picked around the bread. Halfway through breakfast, my laundry timer went off, reminding me it was time to head back and switch loads. I quickly finished up, paid, and went outside to grab my shoes. Stepping into the heat immediately felt like walking into a pool—but in this case, the water was the air itself, thick and hot and all-encompassing. I looked left and right for any passing scooters before crossing the lightly paved road to a safer walking path. At each tight corner along the way, convex mirrors were installed—so drivers could see who was coming and avoid a crash. Whether you were on a scooter or just walking, these mirrors play a small but essential part of survival here.   I passed a large, factory-like building with a few broken windows. It was hard to tell whether it was still in use. Either way, the area around it was

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Inside Rajadamnern: A Night at Thailand’s Most Iconic Muay Thai Stadium – March 16th

Muay Thai, pronounced “moo-ey, Thai” in Thailand, is a martial art that evolved from Muay Boran, an ancient Thai fighting style dating back to the 13th–15th century. Originally practiced by both soldiers and civilians, Muay Boran served as both a self-defense system and a form of combat training. The modern sport of Muay Thai began to take shape in the 1920s–1930s, incorporating rules, gloves, and timed rounds. Rajadamnern Stadium, established in 1945, became one of the key venues for its development and remains one of the most prestigious places for martial artists to showcase their skills.             The fighters who compete in the Rajadamnern World Series (RWS) are true professionals.  For them, Muay Thai isn’t a hobby—it’s a livelihood. Many begin training as early as age 6 or 7, dedicating their lives to the sport.  Unlike Western combat sports, where fighters typically compete 2-6 fights a year, Muay Thai athletes in the RWS regularly battle 12-20 times annually– some stepping into the ring every other week. As a result, it is common for athletes in their 20’s can have 100+ fights under their belt, while a Western fighter might only have accumulated a few dozen across their entire career. Only the most disciplined and skilled fighters make it to the RWS, and those who do are widely regarded as some of the best Muay Thai practitioners in the world.             On March 16th, we scored front-row tickets to one of the daily fight nights—a four-hour event featuring seven different bouts. Each fight lasted up to five rounds, ending by knockout or technical knockout when a fighter could no longer continue. This was the kind of stage where young fighters come to make a name for themselves. The youngest fighter we saw that night was just 15, and the oldest was 28. Seats like these in the West would cost tens of thousands of dollars or more—so by comparison, this was an absolute steal. The only mistake we made was not realizing our seats were just feet from the fight bell. Ding, ding, ding—our ears were literally ringing every time it sounded. Even before the fights started, the front row seats were already paying off. The announcer locked eyes with me and, in front of the whole crowd, asked, “Do you want a free shirt?” Caught off guard, I could only nod before he tossed it my way.             Before each fight, the competitors performed a ceremony called Wai Khru Ram Muay (ไหว้ครูรำมวย). “Wai Khru” means “paying respect to the teacher,” and it’s done to honor one’s coaches, family, and the art of Muay Thai itself. “Ram Muay” means “boxing dance,” and this part is more personal—each fighter moves around the ring in a dance-like pattern unique to them. No two fighters perform it the same; their movements can reflect their region, training camp, or even individual style and preference. Wai Khru Ram Muay is both a spiritual and cultural ritual, meant to clear the mind and prepare for battle. It is accompanied by live traditional music such as the reed flute and drums.             Ironically, the main event—the fourth fight—was the least competitive. By the final round, both fighters were just circling each other and trading taunts, barely throwing any strikes. The crowd let them hear it, booing loudly in disappointment. In contrast, the first three fights were intense and evenly matched. The second bout was especially brutal: one fighter continued with blood smeared across his face and body, only to eventually fall to a vicious head kick that ended the fight in a dramatic knockout.             An interesting fact about Thailand is that gambling is illegal in almost all forms, with few exceptions. However, Muay Thai stadiums like Rajadamnern are one of the rare legal avenues where locals can place bets. And they do—enthusiastically. While tourists come for the spectacle, it’s mostly locals who fill the seats, shouting odds and making hand signals to place wagers mid-fight. The energy in the crowd isn’t just about supporting a favorite fighter—it’s about the thrill of risking real money, legally, in a country where that’s rarely allowed.             Attending Rajadamnern was a true cultural experience. Sitting front row—right next to the constant, ear-piercing dings of the fight bell—made it unforgettable. It’s something we’ll always remember, and without a doubt, something we’d do again.

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