I have fallen behind on writing blog posts, I am currently trying to catch up while in Europe. Part 2 to come hopefully within the next week.
The Arrival: Flying in a Ghost plane
Arriving in Australia from Bali felt surreal—not because of culture shock or jet lag, but because the flight itself was practically a ghost ship. Of the 300 seats on board, maybe 30 were occupied. It was eerie. Every passenger had their own row, stretched out like royalty in economy class. What made it stranger was the route. Bali is a hotspot for Aussie vacationers—you’d expect a packed flight, not this floating lounge. But thanks to the mercurial algorithms that run airline pricing, I ended up horizontal for most of a six-hour flight. It was one of those rare moments where the chaos of modern travel bent in our favor.
Sydney: The Pitstop
The main reason we flew into Sydney—like so many of our decisions on this trip—came down to one thing: price. Simply put, it was the cheapest option. We could only afford to stay for two nights, but I’m glad we made the stop.
We stayed in a hostel near the very center of Sydney called 790 on George (George Street) right in the heart of the city. It was everything a budget traveler could ask for: central, busy, and packed with backpackers from around the world—young solo travelers, older adventurers, even a few families. It wasn’t fancy, but it did its job. And if you’re looking to party, odds are you’ll find your crew here.
Winter and I took a day trip to Manly, which is an iconic beach suburb of Sydney known for its relaxed vibe and golden sand. The ferry ride itself was worth the trip. The ferry ride takes you right through Sydney Harbor, right by the Opera House. It was such a beautiful building and definitely a highlight. But I have to admit, after seeing it in so many photos, videos, and movies, I expected it to be….. Bigger. Not in a disappointing way, it really is a stunning structure, but the scale caught me off guard. It made the building feel more human, which was actually a refreshing feeling.
The ride on the ferry was gorgeous as we got to see the entire city skyline for 20 minutes each way. We spent the day relaxing on the beach of course, and took a walk up to Shellyhead lookout. We met an Iguana buddy at the top, who I promptly named Igor. We took in the views of Manly beach and the Tasman sea as we relaxed with our new friend Igor. We then said goodbye to our short lived friend and returned to our hostel.
Flying Jetstar:
Let me tell you – flying Jetstar is brutal when it comes to baggage. These people do not paly games when it comes to weight limits. So far on our trip, although our carry on bags were consistently over 7kg, most airlines -even budget airlines like Vietjet- did not seem to care as long as it wasn’t egregiously over 7kg. Jetstar? Not so forgiving. Despite our checked bags being 8kg under our limit, they forced us to redistribute 4kg from our carry-on bags, (we were both about 2kg over) to our checked luggage. Naturally, II did some cheating, leaving items on the ground before putting them back into my backpack after they passed weigh-in. Apparently Jetstar is used to people getting by, because they had another weigh-in right before you board at the discretion of the gate agent. We accidentally wandered in line for the second weigh-in, and I was preparing for the 70 AUD for being over. Then came the voice -“I didn’t tell you to get in this line” snapped the gate agent, (she seemed like she had been doing this job for too long) Whew. We had officially beaten Jetstar and were on our way to Brisbane.
Brisbane
When we arrived in Brisbane, Jackie, who is my Aunt Paula’s former in-law, (my cousins’ aunt) graciously picked us up. I hadn’t seen Jackie since I was 4 years old, when both her and my father lost a few fingers within a month of each other. Strange connection to remember someone by, but that is life.
Jackie treated us like family from the moment we arrived. She introduced us to her children, Zanna, Destiny, and Heath. A truly lovely bunch. We only had a half a day with Jackie before she went away for the weekend for a music festival, but in that short time she gave us the grand tour of Brisbane and caught us up on life over the past couple decades
One of the first things we learned in Brisbane, courtesy of Zanna, is that Winter and I have “very american accents.” We had gotten this a few times in Australia, which is funny because I don’t think most Americans would say we have strong accents, albeit I do pronounce my R’s a little funny. We talked to Zanna and her friend who were a few years younger than us about the state of America, and fielded all of their questions.
We touched on a wide range of topics, some light, many not. , They were particularly shocked by the state of US healthcare (or lack thereof), the normalization of gun violence (especially involving kids), and a few things we both grapple with in our countries, like domestic violence and the treatment of vulnerable populations such as the elderly and disabled. These kind of conversations, honest, curious, peer-to-peer, are some of my favorite parts of traveling. You get to see your home country through the lens of someone else’s eyes. It can really put things in perspective.
Zanna and her friend also warned us half-heartedly about the local “eshays” , a group of Australian local kids who hang around in packs, get into fights, do drugs, and are apparently into wearing Nike TN trainers. The best cultural comparison I could find for this term that I could relate to was “townies” or “hooligans.” It is always fascinating to hear what young people around the world are worried about. Despite differences, there are always echoes of the same concerns. Fresh eyes, New perspectives. You learn a lot just talking to people.
Noosa Heads
After Brisbane we took a 2 hour train to Nambourne, where my Aunt Paula graciously picked us up and let us crash in her living room for just under two weeks. Having family to experience Australia with made the trip so much more meaningful. It was lovely spending Easter in Australia with Aunt Paula and my cousins Finn and Joe (we missed you Tully!). We also got to meet Daisy Mae, Joe’s first born daughter. For a child not even 2 years old, she talks like she is approaching 4. I have never seen such social skills in such a young child. And she loves attention too. Her latest hobby seems to be sweeping the floor, which made a mundane task unexpectedly adorable and entertaining.
We were in Noosa Heads from April 19th-30th which included our two day exertion to K’gari (pronounced GAH-ree) formerly known as Fraser island. Although in retrospect, this time flew by, but there were so many highlights. What follows is just a few snapshots of some of our favorite memories during our stay with Paula.
For our nature fix, our trip to Noosa National Park ws one to remember. We went on Easter weekend, which although the area was incredibly busy, we found that this coastal trail still felt peaceful and full of charm. Our goal that day was to spot a Koala. This park is a stunning mix of rugged cliffs, secluded beaches, rainforest, and ocean views. Its highlights include places that include Tea Tree bay, Hell’s Gate, and Alexandra bay (apparently also a nudist beach we were told, though we didn’t go investigating). Although we did not meet our goal in seeing a Koala, we did see a Kookaburra and had a lovely conversation with a Canadian traveler about how wild it is that such a pristine slice of nature sits right beside a bustling tourist hub. Whether you want to swim, enjoy the beach, the scenery, or the wildlife, Noosa National Park has something for everyone.
Another day to remember is ANZAC day. ANZAC day is a national holiday held on April 25th to honor the Australia and New Zealand Army Corps. Originally, the term referred to the Australian and New Zealand soldiers who fought together in World War 1 – most famously the Gallipoli campaigns in 1915. Today, ANZAC day commemorates those soldiers as well as all Australian and New Zealand service members who have served in wars, conflicts, and peacekeeping missions since. It is a full-day even of marches, ceremonies, drinking, and most uniquely – Two-up.
Two-up is a traditional gambling game where two coins are tossed in the air and players bet on whether the coins will land on heads or tails. This was a popular pastime for the ANZAC during the war, and to honor this tradition, this form of gambling is only legal to participate in on ANZAC day at particular locations – usually the RSL (Returned and Services League).
People gather around and hold money in the air. This can be as little as 5AUD, and up to hundreds or even thousands of dollars per bet. The scene is chaotic in the best way. People waving cash in the air, calling out bets, and locking eyes with strangers to agree on terms, usually by pointing to either their head or backside to signal a bet on heads or tails. Winnings (or losses) are handed over on the spot. As my cousins said, not paying up is a great way to get punched or taken out back. I didn’t play myself, but it was a blast just watching the action and soaking in the energy of the slightly too drunk crowd. It was festive, rowdy, and very very Australian.
Part Two: Coming soon
Australia has been full of adventures and unforgettable moments with Winter and family. In Part Two, I’ll share more stories from Noosa Heads, the saga of Winter losing her phone on the bus (again — don’t worry, we got it back), our trip to K’gari (formerly Fraser Island), the surreal landscapes of the Carlo Sandblow, and our time in Melbourne — including a wonderful visit with Geoffrey.